Solar dos Presuntos
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 150, 1150-269 Lisboa, Portugal
Tel: +351 213 424 253

The wines

Soalheiro 2024 Primeiras Vinhas  Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde DOC

A Cerca dos Frades 2020 Reserva Terrantez do Pico Doc

Lisbon has become one of Europe’s most sought-after travel destinations in recent years. Compared with cities such as Paris, London, or Rome, Portugal’s capital possesses a more relaxed and effortlessly charming character. Blessed with abundant sunshine throughout most of the year, Lisbon enjoys a mild climate shaped by the Atlantic Ocean. Even during the height of summer, the cooling ocean breeze brings welcome relief, giving the city a remarkably comfortable rhythm of life. Beyond its pleasant weather, Lisbon’s relatively affordable cost of living remains one of its greatest attractions. Hotels, restaurants, and wines continue to offer exceptional value when compared with many major Western European cities. Equally important is the warmth and hospitality of the Portuguese people, which makes visitors feel immediately welcome.

Portugal is also home to some of Europe’s richest marine resources. Fish, shellfish, and seafood landed daily from the Atlantic form the backbone of the country’s culinary identity. Combined with outstanding olive oil, traditional cheeses, Iberian ham, and an increasingly celebrated wine culture, Lisbon has emerged as one of Europe’s most compelling gastronomic destinations. Yet for those who truly wish to understand Portuguese food culture, the answer is not always found in the city’s newest restaurants or trendiest wine bars. More often than not, a traditional establishment with decades of history offers a far more authentic window into the country’s culinary soul. Founded in 1974, Solar dos Presuntos is precisely such a place.

Having recently celebrated its fiftieth anniversary, Solar dos Presuntos has earned its place as one of Lisbon’s enduring institutions. In a city with no shortage of dining options, surviving and thriving for over half a century speaks volumes about its reputation among locals. A quick glance at the menu reveals why. Rather than chasing culinary trends or modern reinterpretations, the restaurant remains firmly committed to Portugal’s classic dishes. From shellfish, octopus, and the many forms of bacalhau to the roast baby goat traditionally associated with festive occasions, each dish represents an important chapter in Portuguese culinary heritage.

Before deciding on our meal, however, our attention was drawn first to the wine list. In a country that boasts hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, the wine list often deserves as much attention as the menu itself. In some cases, it reveals even more about the depth and diversity of local culture. To begin the evening, we chose a bottle of Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2024 from Monção e Melgaço in northern Portugal. For many wine lovers, Alvariñho serves as the gateway to Portuguese white wines, and few producers have done more to define the variety than Soalheiro.

As the first glasses were poured, the opening dishes began to arrive at the table. The first dish to arrive was a plate of Maldonado Bellota Iberian ham. For many Jamón enthusiasts, Joselito has become synonymous with the pinnacle of Iberian ham. Yet among serious Spanish ham aficionados, Maldonado enjoys an equally stellar reputation. It is worth noting that Bellota is not a producer but a classification. It refers to pigs that spend their final fattening period feeding primarily on acorns (bellotas) and natural pasture. As such, Joselito, Maldonado, and Cinco Jotas (5J) all produce Bellota hams. What distinguishes them is not the classification itself, but rather the breed, the grazing environment, and the aging philosophy employed by each producer. In many ways, Bellota functions much like an appellation in wine, while producers such as Joselito and Maldonado represent different interpretations of the same terroir. If Joselito is often associated with elegance, precision, and refinement, Maldonado offers a distinctly different personality. Extended aging gives rise to deeper and more savory flavors, revealing notes reminiscent of walnuts, aged cheese, dried mushrooms, and rich broth. Compared with the finesse and polish of Joselito, Maldonado feels more powerful, layered, and characterful.

The next dish to arrive was Russian Salad with Prawns. This is one of those dishes that can be found throughout Europe. Despite its name, more than a century of adaptation has transformed it into something uniquely local wherever it appears. From Spain’s Ensaladilla Russa to Portugal’s Salada Russa, and countless regional interpretations across France and Italy, there is no single definitive version. Perhaps that is precisely what makes it so fascinating. Some versions rely heavily on potatoes, while others incorporate tuna, pickles, or eggs. In coastal regions, seafood frequently becomes the dominant element. At Solar dos Presuntos, the dish leaned unmistakably toward the maritime side. Prawns and peas played the leading roles, while mayonnaise served as the thread that gently tied everything together. What impressed me most was its lightness. Many versions of Russian Salad can feel heavy due to their reliance on potatoes and mayonnaise. Here, however, the dish remained remarkably fresh and vibrant. The sweetness of the peas and the delicate marine character of the prawns took center stage, while the mayonnaise provided texture and cohesion without overwhelming the ingredients themselves.

Next came the Octopus Salad. If the Russian Salad conveyed comfort and softness, the octopus salad introduced a brighter and more energetic dimension to the meal. The octopus was simply prepared and lightly seasoned, allowing the ingredient itself to remain the focus. What stood out most was not the octopus, but rather the dish’s striking acidity. Fresh and vibrant, the acidity complemented the subtle marine character of the octopus beautifully. It neither dominated nor distracted from the seafood, but instead refreshed the palate and heightened anticipation for the courses that would follow.

The next dish was one of Portugal’s most beloved seafood classics: Bulhão Pato clams. Strictly speaking, the most memorable aspect of the dish may not have been the clams themselves. Garlic, olive oil, parsley, and the naturally released juices of the clams combined to create a sauce of remarkable simplicity and irresistible appeal. There was no technical complexity and no elaborate presentation, yet the result was profoundly satisfying. Soon a familiar scene unfolded around the table. Long after the clams themselves had disappeared, everyone continued reaching for pieces of bread. The sauce was repeatedly mopped up until virtually nothing remained on the plate. If the preceding dishes revolved around freshness, delicacy, and the flavors of the sea, the arrival of Bacalhau Tomatada marked a clear shift in the evening’s rhythm. For the Portuguese, cod is far more than an ingredient; it is a cultural symbol. There is a famous saying that Portugal has more than a thousand ways of preparing bacalhau. While undoubtedly an exaggeration, it nonetheless reflects the central role cod plays in the national cuisine. Here, thick pieces of cod were gently enveloped in a tomato-based sauce. The acidity of the tomatoes remained present, but prolonged cooking had integrated their sweetness with the savory depth of the fish and the richness of the sauce itself. For the first time that evening, the flavors on the table began to move toward greater depth and complexity. And it was precisely at that moment that we decided to open the second bottle. Unlike the first bottle from northern Portugal, our attention now shifted toward the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. The second wine of the evening was A Cerca dos Frades Reserva Terrantez do Pico 2020. As the wine was poured, I found myself thinking back to a previous visit to Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. For wine lovers, the two regions share an undeniable connection. Volcanoes, ocean influences, relentless winds, and viticulture practiced under extreme conditions have shaped both into some of the most distinctive wine regions in the world. Yet they are fundamentally different. If Lanzarote represents a landscape where volcanoes meet the desert, Pico feels like a place where volcanoes meet the sea. Here, vineyards are planted among black basalt walls only a short distance from the Atlantic Ocean. Sea spray, salt, wind, and volcanic rock combine to create one of the world’s most distinctive terroirs. The wine itself quickly brought to mind some of the finest examples of Etna Bianco. Both are born from volcanic origins and both emphasize structure and minerality over exuberant fruit expression. They are wines that derive their identity less from primary aromas and more from texture, tension, and a profound sense of place. This Reserva bottling also revealed subtle signs of oak influence. Gentle spice notes, a faint waxy texture, and hints of toasted complexity added another layer of dimension, giving the wine sufficient structure to accompany the dishes that followed. Yet unlike Etna Bianco, which often expresses itself through volcanic ash, smoke, and citrus-driven aromas, Terrantez do Pico ultimately returns to the ocean. As the wine gradually opened in the glass, subtle saline notes and a distinctly maritime character emerged, transporting the drinker back to that remote volcanic island in the middle of the Atlantic. The first dish to accompany the wine was Bacalhau à Lagareiro. Among Portugal’s countless cod preparations, Lagareiro is perhaps one of the most iconic. For wine lovers, the name may evoke the traditional granite lagares used for foot treading in the Douro Valley. The connection is not entirely coincidental. Both words share the same linguistic root. In Portuguese, lagar originally referred to an olive oil press, and Lagareiro can be loosely understood as “olive oil press style.” As the name suggests, olive oil is the defining element of the dish. The thick fillet of cod retained remarkable succulence despite being roasted. Generous quantities of extra virgin olive oil and garlic formed the foundation of the dish, while slowly roasted onions contributed an appealing natural sweetness. Their pungency had long disappeared, replaced by a gentle caramelized character that intertwined beautifully with the cod’s savory depth, the richness of the olive oil, and the fragrance of garlic. The result was a dish whose complexity far exceeded its apparent simplicity. The final main course brought the meal into an entirely different world of flavors. If the earlier dishes had revolved around the Atlantic Ocean, roast baby goat returned us to Portugal’s inland countryside and culinary traditions. In many regions of Portugal, Cabrito Assado is more than a dish. It is a celebration. Whether at Easter, Christmas, or major family gatherings, roast baby goat often occupies the center of the table. What impressed me most was the way it simultaneously expressed two seemingly contradictory qualities. On one hand, it retained the gentle wildness that is characteristic of goat meat. Not an aggressive gaminess, but rather an earthy and rustic character that immediately distinguishes it from more conventional meats. On the other hand, it displayed remarkable elegance. The meat remained tender after long roasting, while rosemary, garlic, olive oil, and roasting juices had fully integrated into a seamless whole. No single element stood apart; everything contributed to a warm and harmonious expression of flavor. Most memorable of all was the balance between these two qualities. Wildness and elegance existed side by side, creating a tension that gave the dish much of its appeal. The only disappointment was the traditional baked rice served alongside it. In theory, the rice should absorb the roasting juices and become an integral part of the dish. On this occasion, however, it felt somewhat muted and lacked the depth displayed by the goat itself. Fortunately, this did little to diminish the overall experience. What remained unforgettable was the goat’s combination of rustic character and refinement—a fitting conclusion to a meal that celebrated the many facets of Portuguese culinary culture.

From Maldonado Bellota ham to Russian Salad, octopus salad, Bulhão Pato clams, cod, and roast baby goat, the dinner showcased not modern gastronomy or culinary innovation, but rather the flavors that generations of Portuguese people have grown up with and continue to cherish. The two white wines served as threads running through the entire meal. From the Alvarinho vineyards of Monção e Melgaço to the volcanic landscapes of Pico Island, they revealed the extraordinary diversity of Portugal’s wine culture and terroirs.

As we left Solar dos Presuntos that evening, what remained in my memory was not a particular dish or even a particular wine. It was the lively conversations filling the room, the steady procession of hot dishes arriving at tables, and the unmistakable sense of life unfolding all around us.

Perhaps that, more than anything else, is what makes Lisbon so captivating.

The wines in detail