by Ian D’Agata
Like practically everywhere else in “new” modern-day wine producing countries such as Australia, Chile and the USA, Chinese wine has been dominated by the usual suspects: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, mostly (by contrast, Sauvignon Blanc hasn’t attracted much interest amongst growers and consumers). However, as the Chinese are becoming increasingly more knowledgeable about wine, things are beginning to change. It is still a stretch to say that the country is no longer speaking français when it comes to its wine grapes, but Chinese wines are starting to speak different grape nationalities. Today, many outstanding Chinese wines are being made with non-French varieties such as Aglianico, Barbera, Malbec, Ritzkateli, Saperavi, and Tempranillo. But French grapes are getting their day in the sun too, it’s just that it’s not the usual core-four but beauties like Petit Manseng and Marselan: the former is gaining ground rapidly (literally, as in plantings and bottlings are going up, up and away) and the latter makes what are easily recognizable as the country’s best wines. Add to that already long and thought-provoking list that wine grapes previously associated with cheap quaffs such as Welshriesling are now showing real promise, and that Chinese grape crossings (developed in Chinese university laboratories) like Beihong and Beichun are now the source of some very good wines, and you understand how the name game has changed in Chinese wine.
