Lanzarote: Wines Growing From Volcanic Ash

by Yumi Liu

In the Atlantic Ocean, at the eastern edge of Spain’s Canary Islands, Lanzarote appears less like a traditional wine region and more like a stark landscape shaped by volcanic forces. Between 1730 and 1736, a series of eruptions from the Timanfaya volcano dramatically transformed the island’s geography, covering vast areas of farmland with lava and volcanic ash. For the inhabitants of the time, the disaster seemed to signal the end of agriculture.

Lanzarote: Wines Growing From Volcanic Ash

Yet it was precisely on this seemingly barren volcanic terrain that local farmers gradually discovered an unexpected possibility. The volcanic fragments covering the soil — locally known as picón or lapilli — possess remarkable porosity, allowing them to absorb and retain moisture from the night air. In an environment with almost no rainfall, this layer of volcanic gravel acts as a natural reservoir, providing vines with the minimal water they require. To protect the vines from the strong winds blowing in from the Atlantic, growers began digging deep pits into the volcanic ash and building semicircular stone walls around each vine. Over time, this distinctive cultivation method came to define the most recognizable vineyard landscape of Lanzarote.

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Yumi Liu

Yumi Liu has been collecting and drinking wine for more than a decade and has earned a slew of wine certificates in the interim: level 3 WSET and now planning diploma studies; Educator level in Spanish wines (Wines of Spain certified), top level New Zeland wines (Wines of New Zeland certified) and obtained the highest score in her class for German wines (Wines of Germany certified). She has passed all of Ian D’Agata’s Italian wine courses and is generally regarded as being one of the most knowledgeable people on Italian wine in all of China. Over the years, she has also served as the Wine Educator at EMW wines, one of China’s five largest and most important fine wine importers and has led masterclasses on wines at prestigious wine shows including the Wine to Asia fair in Shenzhen and Vinitaly in Verona.

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