In this first part of a two-part report, Michael Apstein discusses how Villages burgundies and the wines of négociants should not be forgotten. In part 2, written byu ian D’Agata and out in two weeks, about thirty different Villages and Bourgogne wines will be reviewed, with the odd Premier and Grand Cru thrown in for comparison’s sake.
The message screaming from bottle and in this review is “Do Not Ignore Village Burgundy.” And the subtitle is, “Do Not Ignore Wines from Négociants.”
Village Burgundies, those wines that come from vines that lie within the AOC of the village, but not from Premier Cru sites, comprise forty percent of Burgundy’s production. Contrast that with Grand and Premier Cru Burgundy, which represent one and nine percent, respectively, of the region’s production. Many Burgundy aficionados will only drink Grand and Premier Cru. They often look down their collective noses at village Burgundies. This wine shows that’s a mistake.