Restaurant Reviews: Schwane 1404 in Würzburg

by Ian D'Agata

Schwane 1404

Hauptsrasse 12

97332 Volkach

Franken

Germany

Tel. +49 938180660

The dishes

Smoked salmon/melon/silvaner

Grilled chicken drumsticks/Mirabelle/radicchio/hazelnut

Duck/pumpkin/cranberries/parsnip

Citrus/shortbread/sabayon

One of the oldest inns of the Franken (Germany’s Franconian region), the Schwane 1404 is located in the upscale but welcoming Romantik Hotel Zur Schwane in the pretty town of Volkach. It is an outstanding stube-type restaurant (a Franconian Wirtsstube, in fact) that serves traditional food re-interpreted with noteworthy modern flair. (The hotel also has another dining spot, the one Michelin star Weinstock restaurant.) In fact, the centuries-old Schwane 1404 (it started serving hungry travelers over 600 years ago) really is a stube only in its inviting rustic charm, décor, and atmosphere. Clearly, while the wood panelling, heavy tablecloths, dim lighting, heavy wooden chairs and table might conjure up the idea of a warm stube, the food served there is very removed from the typical hearty fare of dining establishments such as bistros and stubes. Its dishes showcase outstanding inventiveness and complexity, not to mention refinement, and are certainly worthy of a one Michelin star rating as well (to be crystal-clear, I have been to, for example, starred-gastropubs in the United Kingdom where the food, though good, is nowhere near as good as the one you’ll find at Schwane 1404). And when the weather allows, if you like, you can also eat in the beautiful inner courtyard where a seven meters long table makes for a fun, easygoing and different evening.

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Ian D’Agata
Ian D’Agata

Ian D’Agata is an internationally famous, multi-award winning author who has been speaking and writing about wine for thirty years. His latest books (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, Italy’s Grapes and Wines: The definitive Compendium Region by Region and the most recent, Barolo Terroir) are considered the bibles of Italian wine and have received numerous prestigious awards such as the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards “Book of the Year” title, the Gourmand World Book Awards “Best European Wine Book” and being named to the “Best Wine Books of the Year” lists of newspapers and magazines such as the NY Times, the Financial Times and Food & Wine. For eight years, Ian has also been the co-author of the Italy section in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Book of Wine, the world’s best- selling wine guide with 46 editions to date and over 12 Million copies sold all over the world; he has since been also put in charge of the Alsace and Malta sections.
He is the is currently the President of Ian D’Agata Wine Culture, one of China’s wine education platforms, that includes the Ian D’Agata Wine Review and the Ian D’Agata Wine Academy. Ian is a former staff writer at Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Contributing Editor of Decanter, and Senior Editor of Vinous. His writings have always focused on the wines of Italy, France, China and Canada, for which he has won numerous international awards and accolades, including the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia “Best Youngest Wine Journalist of Italy” and the “Best Wine Journalist of Italy” awards, as well as Canada’s 2018 VQA award (Out of Ontario section) and 2017 Cuvée Award of Excellence.
Intensely devoted to the research and study of native wine grapes, Ian was officially named in 2015 to Italy’s prestigious Accademia della Vite e del Vino (Italy’s official association of wine academicians, researchers, and university professors) and is currently the Vice President of the Association Internationale des Terroirs.

Contacts: Instagram: @ian_dagata; Email: iandomenicodagata@outlook.it

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