The following is an abridged and re-worked version of a chapter that will be an integral part of Ian D’Agata’s new book on the wines of China. Having lived there six years now, and having tasted hundreds of Chinese wines a year since 2010, unlike those who live, for example, in London, NYC and Sydney who get to China once in a while only and have limited opportunities to taste Chinese wines, Ian is uniquely well-versed and positioned in talking and writing about the country’s wines.

China’s wine is not for those who look for and are in need of the Linus blanket of easy answers to complex questions. The country’s rich biodiversity will surprise those wine lovers unaware of the country’s long history pertaining to grapes and wine. In fact, along with apples, citrus fruits, pears and bananas, grapes are one of the China’s most important fruit products and have been for more than 2000 years.