by Ian D’Agata
Like Bruno Giacosa and Bartolo Mascarello, Elvio Cogno was one of the grand old men of Barolo and the winery that takes his name, Cogno, is one of Barolo’s leading lights. One that has truly many feathers in its cap. In fact, where does one even begin in narrating all there is to say about this winery and the man? I imagine one has to start with the fact that Elvio Cogno, was a native of Novello, one of only eleven communes of the Barolo denomination. Cogno was working at his family’s restaurant in La Morra when he met Giuseppe Marcarini, the owner of the famous Marcarini winery in La Morra; Marcarini liked the young man’s energy and passion so much that he offered him a job. At Marcarini, Cogno moved up to the rank of chief winemaker, making very traditionally-minded, age-worthy Barolos (instantly recognizable by their iconic gold label) from 1964 until his departure in December 1990, when he decided to fly solo.
