It was the best of times, … and there it stops, for Brunello di Montalcino is not currently knowing the worst of times. So quite unlike in the famous novel by Dickens (A Tale of Two Cities, that I appreciate more today than when I had to study it back in high school) where it was also the worst of times, it’s been nothing but clear sailing of late for Montalcino and most of its wines. The reasons are many: a string of mostly very good to memorable vintages; better than ever Rosso di Montalcino; and fewer Brunellos than ever that are overly-oaky, too tired already upon release (especially the Brunello Riservas) or just plain flawed, all combine to ensure it’s really mostly good news of late for the Montalcino denomination. Gone are those sorry days when pouring a dozen Brunellos into glasses side by side meant getting a crash-course on just how many shades of black (or close to it) could be crammed in a wine glass (black-like and similarly dark colours are a physical impossibility with a 100% Sangiovese wine) or when a good portion of the denomination’s producers (all the big ones, of course) were hell-bent on changing the Rosso di Montalcino production guidelines in order to allow the addition of Merlot and other international varieties added to Sangiovese (an unspoken but very obvious ploy to then get Merlot and his comrades added into Brunello too). Mercifully, clearer heads prevailed, and Montalcino avoided shooting itself in the foot. The moral of the story is that just putting your nose to the grindstone and doing the right thing is always the best option: ultimately, it is the way that guarantees the best outcomes. Frankly, there was always a lot to like about Montalcino and its wines: and in these best of times, now that Sangiovese is front and center on everybody’s minds, there’s even more to like. A case in point being the many very good to outstanding 2020 Brunellos and 2019 Brunello Riservas, the subject of this report.
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