On November 7, 2024, I was honored to attend an extraordinary evening in Alsace at the renowned Auberge de l’Ill to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Clos Saint Hune Trimbach’s world-famous Riesling wine. This was not merely a bespoke feast of flavours and history, but also a heartfelt tribute to this legendary Riesling and the enduring spirit of the Trimbach family.
The Venue: A Perfect Blend of History and Gastronomy
Nestled in the picturesque village of Illhaeusern, the two-star Michelin Auberge de l’Ill (that everyone in Alsace still considers to be a three-star venue) embodies the soul of Alsace. This Michelin-starred restaurant is celebrated for its unparalleled cuisine, where each dish combines exquisite craftsmanship with a deep appreciation for tradition—qualities that resonate perfectly with the elegance and classic nature of Clos Saint Hune. Over the years the Haeberlin family has carved a place in French culinary history, and the number of chefs who trained there (for example, Eric Pras and Hubert Keller, just to name the first to come to mind) and have since become world-famous cooking stars of their own is extremely long and impressive.
Clos Saint Hune: A Century of Legacy and Spirit
Clos Saint Hune is more than just an exceptional Riesling wine—it is the embodiment of the Trimbach family’s heritage, passed down through generations. Over the past century, this remarkably age-worthy wine has become a symbol of purity, elegance, and balance—the hallmarks of the estate’s style. With its refined minerality and remarkable aging potential, Clos Saint Hune is cherished by wine lovers around the globe as a true classic. Located in the grand cru Rosacker, a site from where practically no other wine of similar note and fame is made, Clos Saint Hune has carved a place for itself, according to most expert accounts, amongst the world’s ten or so greatest dry white wines. For the Trimbach family, Clos Saint Hune is not just a wine but a reflection of their family’s unwavering dedication to its craft and land. From meticulous winemaking to an uncompromising pursuit of excellence, this legacy remains vibrant after 100 years and continues onward, handed down to the generation after generation with the same timeless vision. And we have one great Clos Saint Hune bottling after another, with obvious vintage-dependent variations, to show it.
The Dinner Highlights: Honoring the Past, Inspiring the Future
The culinary team at the Auberge tailor-designed a menu that perfectly paired with Clos Saint Hune. I found that from the inspiration behind each dish to its presentation, every element highlighted the unique character of this legendary Riesling wine. From the get-go, guests -about forty of the world’s foremost wine journalists and wine writers who had flown in from all over the world just for this important occasion- were immersed in a journey of iconic vintages, savoring the harmony between the wine and cuisine while discovering the stories behind each bottle. On this evening, wine was not just a beverage—it was a distillation of time, culture, and family spirit—a priceless memory that cannot be replicated for someone like me who is still eagerly learning about the magic of this wine, the family and all Alsace wine. The wines were made that much more interesting and remarkable by being paired with Marc Haeberlin’s outstanding cuisine.
Below is an in-depth exploration of each course and its accompanying wine pairing, along with my tasting impressions.
- Le Tartare de Langoustine au Caviar Osciètre (Langoustine tartare with Ossetra caviar)
Paired with:
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 2012 (magnum)
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 2001
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1992
This dish features the tender and delicate texture of a king prawn tartare, complemented by luxurious Ossetra caviar (also spelled Oscietra, Osetra and in many other ways, different spellings used in different parts of the world that were created by those who produce and sell this caviar), highlighting finesse and freshness. Note that while there is a common tendency to lump langoustines in the prawn category but this is wrong, as the langoustine, or Nephrops norvegicus, is a lobster (it is in fact correctly called Norway lobster, in English) and is not a shrimp, unlike true prawns (lobsters and prawns belong to different sub-orders of the same family).
2012 Clos Saint Hune (served from a magnum) : This wine is vibrant, with a long finish and prominent lemon and mineral notes. It serves as the perfect introduction to the meal. At twelve years on, the still youthful character of the 2012 vintage beautifully complements the fresh texture of the Norway lobster, while the saltiness of the caviar (which juxtaposes nicely with the sweetness of the lobster flesh) further enhances the wine’s delicate vitality.
2001 Clos Saint Hune: This wine reveals a deeper structural complexity and mature flavors, creating a harmonious balance with the richness and salinity of the caviar. As Ian D’Agata has taught me, it is instantly recognizable as being from 2001, a vintage that marks Alsace’s wines throughout.
1992 Clos Saint Hune: With a subtle smokiness and a spicy finish, this wine interacts delicately with the saltiness of the caviar and the freshness of the prawn, adding a layer of complexity to the dish.
In my view, each wine brings something unique to the dish, but the 2012 vintage, with its vibrant and refreshing characteristics, proves to be the ideal pairing, perfectly setting the stage for the sensory experiences to follow the rest of the evening.
- La Mousseline de Grenouilles « Paul Haeberlin » (The Paul Haeberlin frog-leg mousseline)
Paired with:
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 2015 (magnum)
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 2005
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1988 (magnum)
This classic frog mousseline is renowned for its creamy texture and delicate flavor, requiring wines with bright acidity and complexity to balance its richness. It is believed in Alsace that it was the creation of this dish that earned the restaurant its third Michelin star (for a very long time, Auberge de l’Ill was the second longest running three-Michelin star restaurant in France).
2015 Clos Sainte Hune (served from magnum): The youthful fruitiness and vibrant acidity bring a lively freshness to the dish, cutting through the creamy texture and adding a layer of elegance.
2005 Clos Sainte Hune: The moderate aging of this vintage reveals more intricate layers of minerality and spice, perfectly complementing the depth of flavors in the mousseline.
1988 Clos Sainte Hune (served from magnum): Despite its over thirty years of age, the wine’s color shows little difference from the 2015 and 2005, displaying an elegant pale golden hue. The wine remains remarkably vibrant, with its acidity exceptionally well-preserved. This provides a refreshing balance to the creamy texture of the dish. In addition, the 1988 vintage delivers complex aromas of honey and nuts, harmonizing beautifully with the richness of the mousseline. Its long, lingering finish leaves a memorable impression.
Each wine brings its own unique qualities to the pairing, from youthful liveliness to mature complexity. However, the 1988 (magnum) stands out with its outstanding acidity and vibrant character, creating the most elegant pairing with the frog mousseline. This vintage’s classic aging profile elevates the dish, offering a truly refined dining experience.
- Le Filet de Turbot aux Cèpes des Vosges (Turbot filet with Vosges mountain porcini)
Paired with:
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1990 (magnum)
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1983
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1975
The delicate turbot is paired with cèpes and its rich, velvety sauce creates a dish centered on earthy aromas and layered flavors. The sauce’s depth and the robust umami nuances from the mushrooms are perfectly complemented by the complexity and minerality of the aged Riesling wines, making this pairing an exquisite highlight of the evening.
1990 Clos Sainte Hune (served from magnum): A vintage of exceptional ripeness, this wine showcases a full-bodied and concentrated profile that harmonizes beautifully with the richness of the sauce. Despite its ripe character, the wine maintains a clean, refreshing finish with no residual sweetness, enhancing the subtle flavors of the turbot and the earthiness derived from the mushroom presence.
1983 Clos Sainte Hune: Elegant mineral notes and aromas of dried fruits characterize this vintage, which blends seamlessly with the earthy tones of the cèpes. The wine’s remarkable balance elevates the sauce’s richness without overwhelming the dish, adding depth and refinement.
1975 Clos Sainte Hune: Notes of beeswax and roasted nuts from aging create a harmonious match with the complex flavours of the mushrooms and sauce. The wine’s vibrant acidity adds a refreshing lift to the rich sauce, while its gentle sweetness on the finish brings a rounded, lingering complexity to the pairing.
These three aged Clos Sainte Hune Riesling wines perfectly complement the turbot and its cèpes sauce, and the result of the combination of fish and wine is to highlight the depth and maturity of each wine. While all three wines were splendid, among them, I found the 1975 vintage to stand out as the ideal choice to pai with this dish, offering a superb balance of acidity, sweetness, and complexity that underscores the exceptional harmony between the dish and the wine.
- Le Tournedos de Pigeon au Chou, Foie Gras et Truffes (Pigeon tournedos with cabbage, foie gras and truffles)
Paired with:
Marquis d’Angerville 2009 Volnay Premierer Cru Clos des Ducs
Méo-Camuzet 2005 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Trimbach 1967 Riesling Clos Sainte Hune
This dish combines the rich, gamey flavor of pigeon, the silky texture of foie gras, and the earthy depth of truffle, posing a complex challenge for wine pairing.
Volnay Clos des Ducs 2009: The delicate red fruit aromas and silky tannins beautifully support the tender texture of the pigeon, offering a pairing that is elegant and balanced.
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2005: This wine’s development over time has brought subtle notes of animal hide and game, which resonate with the dish’s truffle and foie gras richness, presenting a bold and concentrated style.
Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1967: The most surprising and successful pairing among the three. The aged Riesling reveals aromas of beeswax, intense concentration, and a hint of oxidative character—a true gift of time. It is powerful yet not heavy, finishing with a clean and pure minerality that perfectly balances the dish, creating a unique and harmonious synergy.
The Volnay Clos des Ducs 2009 offered a refined fruit aromas and silky tannins, making for a harmonious pairing, though its slightly lighter profile doesn’t fully emphasize the dish’s core flavors. The Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2005, with its bold aromas and complex structure, stands out but can feel slightly overpowering, disrupting the overall balance of the dish and the wine and food synergy is lacking. The Riesling Clos Sainte Hune 1967, however, excels as the ideal pairing. Its aged depth and mineral purity create a perfect harmony with the dish, delivering an unforgettable experience of elegance and balance.
- La Pêche Haeberlin (The Haeberlin peach)
Paired with:
Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile Sélection de Grains Nobles 1989 (magnum)
This 1989 Frédéric Emile SGN Riesling, filled with a sense of happiness, is the perfect companion to this fresh peach-based dessert. The influence of noble rot adds layers of complexity, offering a luscious sweetness balanced by exceptional acidity. This impeccable harmony creates a wine that is sweet but never cloying, rich yet light on the palate. Its refined structure enhances the natural fruit flavors of the peach, while adding depth and intricacy, delivering an unparalleled tasting experience.
Les Petits Fours et Chocolats
Paired with:
Marc de Clos Sainte Hune, F.E. Trimbach & Distillerie M. Windholtz
The evening concludes with a selection of petits fours and chocolates, perfectly complemented by the Marc de Clos Sainte Hune from one of the world’s truly great distilleries. This refined and aromatic eau-de-vie encapsulates the essence of Clos Sainte Hune, leaving guests with a memorable impression of this extraordinary experience.
At evening’s end, the carefully curated menu and wine pairings left us all with lasting impression of elegance, purity, and timeless balance. The Clos Sainte Hune, over so many vintages, elevated the evening’s culinary artistry to unparalleled heights and confirmed itself -if any confirmation was really needed- as one of the benchmarks of white wine excellence in the world.
The wines in this report were tasted during the 100th anniversary celebration of Trimbach’s Riesling Clos Saint Hune held at l’Auberge de l’Ill in Illhaeursen, Alsace. Our Editor-in-Chief, Ian D’Agata, and I were generously invited along with other wine writers and personalities from France and the rest of the world. Therefore, please note this piece is not a restaurant review, given we did not pay for this dinner, and this is why it appears in the Wineries & People section of our magazine. Any dinner we describe in our magazine’s Tuesday Restaurant & Wine column is always paid for us out of pocket. Therefore, for a review of the Auberge de l’Ill restaurant, please see Ian D’Agata’s article in our weekly (Tuesday) restaurant and Wine column of the Ian D’Agata Wine Review: Auberge de l’Ill in Illhaeursen (Alsace) Sept. 17, 2024.
