L’Osteria del Vignaiolo

Frazione Santa Maria, 12

12064 La Morra

Italy

Tel. +39 0173 50335

The dishes

Misto di antipasti: Delicately grilled pork belly, sweet and sour vegetables and Russian salad (Pancetta di maialino rosolata con verdure agrodolce e insalata russa)

Ravioli del plin al buro e salvia

Fried Beef cubes witrh aromatcu herb bread crust (Cubetti di scamone dorati con pane alle erbette aromatiche)

Tarte tatin

Bunet

Chocolate sphere (Sfera di cioccolato)

The L’Osteria del Vignaiolo is one of the surest bets for fine food and wine in the Langhe, a real sanctuary of tradition and good, authentic taste. Not as glamourous as some other famous dining spots of the area that more often than not end up disappointing (and at a much higher price), the little Osteria does what it does very well, while also boasting a nice dehors where it is beautiful to sit on days when the weather cooperates.

The L’Osteria del Vignaiolo was established in 1996 from what remained of the old Osteria Dotta, that had historically been the main gathering spot and meeting place for all the townsfolk and other locals of the Santa Maria area of the Barolo production zone. The interior was redesigned in a more modern and perhaps functional key, but maintained the old rustic country charm and homey feel of the original building. A fireplace, much wood, shelves, and wood staved ceiling characterize the interior dining room, which is not especially large but very comfortable. Importantly, tables have not been stacked one on top of the other in an effort to maximize numbers of patrons, such that those who do sit down and eat there don’t feel cramped or eavesdropped upon. And as mentioned, from roughly spring to fall, the pretty garden-terrace in front of the building offers a delightful place to kick back and relax while enjoying some of the Langhe’s best cuisine. One last point of interest that I feel is important: the L’Osteria del Vignaiolo is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, thereby making it one of the few places that is open on Mondays, when finding somewhere good to eat can be a chore.

The food at L’Osteria del Vignaiolo comprises a long list of well-rendered Piedmontese classics, such as vitello tonnato, insalata russa and bunet. The recipes are followed rather faithfully, though in some instances they have been intelligently lightened up; however, they never stray too far away from what you would expect the dishes to deliver. The wine list is very well-chosen, such that it is only honest and competent to state that it is in many respects far better than the wine lists of many more famous establishments, where you are all too often faced with drinking nothing but a long list of very young vintages of Piedmontese wines. By contrast, at L’Osteria del Vignaiolo you will find a good selection of top wines from other Italian wine regions of, for example, Alto Adige and FVG, as well as of countries such as Austria and Germany.

The food was once again excellent during my latest lunch at the Osteria. The mixed antipasti is a great way to start, as the insalata russa is fresh and nicely acidic and a real jolt of freshness on a hot summer day. Just make sure you ask for it, because it wasn’t part of the official dish listed amongst the antipasti, but at L’Osteria they are gracious enough to give you some if you ask for it.  Similarly, the sweet and sour vegetables, a Piedmontese staple, also refreshens while delivering a bounty of sweet and salty and sour flavours of ripe and flavourful vegetables. The grilled pork belly was likewise very flavourful. The pln ravioli and the fried beef were very well-cooked and light on their feet, but like everything else served at L’Osteria del Vignaiolo, packed with flavour. But the real deal-breaker on this day were the desserts of which I had three, if you can believe: but they’re so good you understand how well-based my decision is. The tarte tatin may well be the best such dish cooked in the Langhe: granted, there aren’t too many other restaurants in the area making this dessert, so my statement might seem like faint praise; but it isn’t really, because L’Osteria del Vignaiolo’s  rendition of tarte tatin is one that easily stand ups and compares favourably to versions I have had in many one- and two-star Michelin restaurants. It really is that good. The bunet is another benchmark of the area, a luscious, creamy chocolaty and almondy explosion in the mouth that coats your taste buds, wrapping them up in a vice that won’t let go. And you won’t want it to. Last but not least, the chocolate sphere, a dessert that is often too heavy and greasy in its creamy buttery goodness, is instead light and airy, and brimming with dark and milk chocolate flavour. Anybody who likes desserts will come away happy with their experience here in the sweets department.

The wines

Knoll 2022 Grüner Veltliner Loibner Federspiel Austria 91

After a morning of tasting nothing but Barolo, I felt like I needed something white, fresh and bright, and being a huge fan of the Knoll winery and its wines, my choice for a lunch wine was easy. And even though I am a much (much!) bigger fan of Riesling than I am of the somewhat overrated Grüner Veltliner grape, the Knoll 2022 Grüner Veltliner Loibner Federspiel Austria is a beauty. In the 2022 vintage it seems a little less lifted and more creamy and tactile than usual, boasting riper orchard fruit (more yellow than green apple for example), as well as more obvious ripe tropical fruit (pineapple) and tangerines, with little in the way  of the variety’s hallmark white pepper notes. No matter, this lovely wine finishes long and bright and served my meal very well indeed: I couldn’t have been happier. Chalk that up to yet another wonderful, delicious lunch at L’Osteria del Vignaiolo.