In the sun-bleached hills of Paso Robles’ west side, where limestone veins thread the earth and cool nights temper the day’s heat, MAHA Winery stands as a testament to a dream lived fully. This boutique estate, born from the hands of Cris and JoAnn Cherry, isn’t just a vineyard—it’s a family’s soul poured into glass, a story now tinged with both triumph and loss, carried forward by their children, Camille and Henry Cherry, who are actively involved in the winery business.
The Cherrys landed in Paso Robles in 1996, armed with a cellar of inspiration and a vision. By 2001, they’d launched Villa Creek, a label that put the region’s wild heart on the map. MAHA followed, rooted in a 2003 estate purchase that doubled as their home—a place where vines grew alongside their children. Cris, a bit of a rock star character in the local wine scene, brings a bold, savory hand to his winemaking, honed over years with Villa Creek and now refined with a touch more finesse and elegance at MAHA. JoAnn, who passed away in August 2024 after a battle with colorectal cancer, was the quiet force behind its organic, biodynamic, and regenerative farming ethos—an approach that goes beyond sustainability to heal and enrich the land. Her artistic spirit also left its mark: she crafted what are arguably the best labels in the region, each a visual echo of the wines’ soulful depth.
The vineyard itself is a study in restraint and resilience, perched between 1,400 and 1,800 feet in elevation in the Adelaida district, a stone’s throw from Willow Creek district. Just 22.5 kilometers (14 miles) from the ocean, its south-facing steep slopes bask in sunlight while rocky, limestone-rich soils with a pH of 8 challenge the vines to dig deep. Half the property is planted to Grenache (Spanish Garnacha clone 814 and 362)—a testament to how this variety thrives in Paso Robles, reflecting the terroir with dusty cherry, thyme, and a mineral thread that mirrors the limestone beneath. Alongside it, other varieties including Syrah, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, and a significant planting of Carignan—a variety Cris and I both agree works beautifully in Paso—contribute to the reds. Cris’s adventurous spirit also shines in 0.8 hectares (two acres) of white varieties: half of that extension is of Roussanne, planted on vertical cordon, while the other half is of Clairette Blanche planted in gobelet. The Clairette, uncommon outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape, proves a brilliant choice here, inspired partly by the masterful work of Isabel Ferrando in France. It’s worth noting that, as of 2024, Gigondas has introduced a new AOC—Gigondas Blanc—requiring at least 70% Clairette Blanche, a nod to the grape’s rising star.
Since 2020, talented winemaker Oliver Mikkelsen has guided MAHA’s vision, building on the Cherrys’ foundation. The whites shine with the “Before Anyone Else” 100% Clairette, first made in 2017. This wine is intentionally rich and textural, crafted with an oxidative approach during fermentation and extended élevage in roughly 40-50% new oak, the rest neutral. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally, with lees stirring until its completion, yielding a layered, contemplative white. The reds—both blends—carry Cris’s signature savory touch, reminiscent of the Villa Creek wines I’ve enjoyed over the years, yet they weave in a finesse that sets them apart from much of Paso’s bold lineup.
Cris’s past flirtations with Italian varieties from west side Paso Robles—namely Aglianico and Fiano—add another layer to his legacy. I’ve tasted both, and I’m lucky enough to still hoard a few 2011 Aglianico magnums that are aging splendidly in my cellar; their dark, brooding power softening into something profound. Market challenges aside, these two varieties work brilliantly in Paso Robles; if not for a conservative market, they could have a bright future here, their structure and acidity a perfect match for the region’s terroir.
Calcareous soils and a rugged microclimate coax out wines of uncommon depth from modest yields—sometimes mere hundreds of cases—that vanish into the hands of loyal devotees. These are wines of subtlety, not swagger: the Grenache unfurls with its terroir-driven grace; the Syrah broods with black pepper and violets, a Rhône echo tempered by California sun; the Mourvèdre adds its earthy weight; the Carignan brings a rustic, spicy edge. Regenerative farming amplifies this purity, nurturing the soil’s microbial life and locking in carbon—a quiet rebellion against industrial norms that JoAnn championed with fierce dedication. The vines at the estate are still quite young, but the foundation is solid, and the wines are only destined to get better with time as the roots deepen and the family’s vision matures.
MAHA’s story is one of evolution cut short yet enduring. JoAnn’s passing marks the close of an era, but the bottles she helped shape—alongside Cris’s steady, rock-star flair, Mikkelsen’s deft touch, and the next generation in Camille and Henri—carry forward a legacy of authenticity.
For wine critics like myself and the rest of the Ian D’Agata team, who hunt for wines that speak of place and purpose, MAHA offers a narrative as compelling as its flavors: a family’s love letter to Paso Robles, sealed in every sip.
The wines in this report
All the wines were tasted directly at the winery in early 2025.
