by Yumi Liu
Hawksmoor Wood Wharf
1 Water Street, Canary Wharf
London E14 5GX
United Kingdom
Tel. +44 20 3988 0510
The Dishes
Caesar Salad (Baby Gem Lettuce, Red Chicory, Seeded Crackers, Toasted Croutons, Aged Parmesan, Yuzu Caesar Dressing, Cacklebean Egg)
Porterhouse (for two)
Dry-Aged British Beef, Filet & Striploin, Charcoal Grill
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Dates, Toffee Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream
Tucked among the glass towers of Canary Wharf, a quiet canal runs gently through the financial district. The modern skyline reflects cool tones onto the water, yet along the bank stands a restaurant whose atmosphere feels entirely different—warm lighting, floor-to-ceiling windows and a waterside terrace give the space an inviting glow as evening falls. This is Hawksmoor Wood Wharf, one of the London outposts of Britain’s most celebrated steakhouse group.
Since opening its first restaurant in Spitalfields in 2006, Hawksmoor has become something of an institution in the British steakhouse scene. Founders Will Beckett and Huw Gott built the brand on a philosophy that is almost disarmingly simple: source the best beef possible and perfect one of the world’s most universally loved combinations—steak and chips. That deceptively straightforward idea is precisely what has made Hawksmoor one of the most successful restaurant groups in London.
The structure of the meal follows the classic rhythm of a steakhouse dinner: a fresh opening dish to awaken the palate, a substantial steak as the centerpiece, and a traditional British dessert to close the evening.
The meal begins with a Caesar Salad that introduces a few contemporary touches to the classic formula. Crisp baby gem lettuce and slightly bitter red chicory create a lively base, while toasted croutons and seeded crackers add a satisfying crunch. The dressing incorporates yuzu, lending a subtle citrus lift while still preserving the anchovy-driven savouriness and the umami depth of aged Parmesan. The result is a Caesar that feels both familiar and refreshingly bright. And Hawksmoor attention to detail and quality is obvious with the inclusion of the Cacklebean egg, a heritage breed egg that is much-prized for its intensely colored yolk, rich flavor, and strong shell. Produced by Cackleberry Farm in the Cotswolds (England), hence their name, only traditional farming methods that prioritize hen welfare and sustainable practices are employed.
Paired with the salad is Rathfinny Rosé Brut 2019 from Sussex. Southern England has rapidly emerged as one of Europe’s most exciting sparkling wine regions, thanks to chalk soils and a cool maritime climate reminiscent of Champagne. Rathfinny’s Rosé, driven largely by Pinot Noir, shows delicate bubbles, bright red berry fruit and lively acidity. Its freshness balances the richness of the Caesar dressing beautifully while highlighting the anchovy and Parmesan notes, making for an elegant and energetic start to the meal.
The true centerpiece, however, is the Porterhouse steak. Cut from the short loin, the steak is defined by its distinctive T-bone, with tender filet on one side and the more robust striploin on the other. Porterhouse is often confused with T-bone steak, but the defining difference lies in the size of the filet: in a Porterhouse it is significantly larger, resulting in a more impressive cut that is ideal for sharing.
At Hawksmoor, the beef undergoes around 35 days of dry-aging before it reaches the grill. During this time moisture slowly evaporates, concentrating flavour while natural enzymes tenderize the muscle fibers. The steak is then cooked over charcoal, creating a deep, caramelised crust while preserving the meat’s juiciness inside. When sliced, the filet side reveals a softer, more delicate texture, while the striploin delivers greater chew and a deeper expression of the flavour that develops through aging.
Because a Porterhouse contains both filet and striploin, pairing two different wines with the dish makes perfect sense. Corino Barolo 2021 from La Morra aligns beautifully with the striploin side. Nebbiolo’s firm tannins and vibrant acidity stand up to the richer, more intense meat flavour, while notes of rose, red cherry and liquorice add aromatic complexity. By contrast, Fontodi Chianti Classico 2022 is a natural partner for the filet. The Sangiovese grape offers bright acidity and lively red fruit, but with a lighter structure that complements the filet’s tenderness without overwhelming its subtle texture. This way, the pairing is not simply “two wines with one steak,” but rather a thoughtful dialogue between wine and meat: Barolo with the striploin, Chianti Classico with the filet, allowing the two personalities within the Porterhouse to reveal themselves more fully in the context and the help of each wine.
After such a substantial main course, Sticky Toffee Pudding provides a fittingly indulgent finale. The moist date sponge soaked in rich toffee sauce is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, the contrast between warm cake and cold cream creating a classic and comforting British dessert experience. The pairing here is Lustau Pedro Ximénez “San Emilio” Sherry. Intensely sweet and richly textured, the wine shows flavours of raisins, figs, dark sugar and coffee. When matched with the caramel and date notes of the pudding, the result is a seamless harmony—deep, warming and immensely satisfying.
In many ways, Hawksmoor’s success reflects a philosophy that is both simple and unwavering. Rather than reinventing the steakhouse, it focuses on doing the essentials exceptionally well: excellent beef, careful aging, precise cooking and thoughtful wine pairings. Sitting beside the canal at Wood Wharf, it becomes clear that an unforgettable dinner does not always require elaborate culinary theatrics. Sometimes, all it takes is a truly great steak.
The Wines in this report
