The New 2021 and 2020 Riserva Vintages of Brunello di Montalcino: Blame it on Gretzky (and Marco Van Basten, and…), Part 2 (M-Z)

by Ian D’Agata

The “Blame it on Gretzky….” subtitle to this year’s annual report of the new vintage of Brunello di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines, though curious and capable of bringing a smile to one’s face might, at the same time, also be confusing to some readers. Why?

Well…

Wayne Gretzky was the greatest hockey player that ever lived, but on a true dynasty like the Edmonton Oilers he played for (winners of five Stanely cups in seven years) he wasn’t the only name to watch. Mark Messier, Jari Kurri and Paul Coffey were at the very least super-superstars, which means that other memorable players on that team such as goalie Grant Fuhr or defenseman Kevin Lowe (both winners of five cups) were “only” superstars. As crazy as it may seem to be considered as “only a superstar”, that’s what happens when you play alongside once in a lifetime, truly generational players like those others. On AC Milan’s Champion League-winning teams of 1989 and 1990 (a team that during that time span also won two International Cups, two European Supercups, and was named by FIFA “the best soccer team of all time”) the Dutch trio of Marco Van Basten, Ruud Gullit and Frank Rijkaard got most of the attention, but they played on a team that also had once in a lifetime super-superstars like Paolo Maldini and Franco Baresi, which reduced outstanding players like Roberto Donadoni and Carlo Ancellotti to mere superstar status; and the Joe Montana-led San Francico 49ers could also count on generational players like Jerry Rice, Ronnie Lott, and Charles Haley, meaning that superstars like John Taylor and Roger Craig became almost afterthoughts. There are many other sports-related examples such as these I can think of, in tennis, in baseball, in basketball, in golf, and so forth, but the point ought to be clear by now. Fact is, with two stellar vintages blessing Montalcino back-to-back in 2015 and 2016, to be then quickly followed by the almost as outstanding 2019, then it is inevitable that the excellent 2021 vintage ends up being thought of as just that, as merely “excellent”. True, the Brunello wines of 2021 are not at the same exalted level of those three other vintages: but in any other decade, a vintage like 2021 would have had producers and wine lovers dancing in the street and whirling like dervishes gone crazy in paroxysms of joy.

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Ian D’Agata
Ian D’Agata

Ian D’Agata is an internationally famous, multi-award winning author who has been speaking and writing about wine for thirty years. His latest books (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, Italy’s Grapes and Wines: The definitive Compendium Region by Region and the most recent, Barolo Terroir) are considered the bibles of Italian wine and have received numerous prestigious awards such as the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards “Book of the Year” title, the Gourmand World Book Awards “Best European Wine Book” and being named to the “Best Wine Books of the Year” lists of newspapers and magazines such as the NY Times, the Financial Times and Food & Wine. For eight years, Ian has also been the co-author of the Italy section in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Book of Wine, the world’s best- selling wine guide with 46 editions to date and over 12 Million copies sold all over the world; he has since been also put in charge of the Alsace and Malta sections.
He is the is currently the President of Ian D’Agata Wine Culture, one of China’s wine education platforms, that includes the Ian D’Agata Wine Review and the Ian D’Agata Wine Academy. Ian is a former staff writer at Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Contributing Editor of Decanter, and Senior Editor of Vinous. His writings have always focused on the wines of Italy, France, China and Canada, for which he has won numerous international awards and accolades, including the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia “Best Youngest Wine Journalist of Italy” and the “Best Wine Journalist of Italy” awards, as well as Canada’s 2018 VQA award (Out of Ontario section) and 2017 Cuvée Award of Excellence.
Intensely devoted to the research and study of native wine grapes, Ian was officially named in 2015 to Italy’s prestigious Accademia della Vite e del Vino (Italy’s official association of wine academicians, researchers, and university professors) and is currently the Vice President of the Association Internationale des Terroirs.

Contacts: Instagram: @ian_dagata

Email: ian.dagata@iandagatawine.com

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