Interview with New Zealand’s Sato, a Journey into Natural Winemaking

by Yumi Liu

The first time I tasted a wine from Sato, it was their captivating Pinot Gris Orange. I was instantly struck by its purity and vitality. Later, through a Chinese importer, I had the chance to purchase several bottles for deeper study. As a long-time fan of Sato Wines, I felt deeply honored to have the opportunity to interview winemaker Yoshiaki Sato via email. He graciously responded to each question with incredible patience and depth. The following article is a faithful record of our exchange, presented in Q&A format, with occasional reflections on the wines and their context.

Winery Background: A Story of Dedication and Reinvention

Founded by husband-and-wife duo Yoshiaki and Kyoko Sato, Sato Wines is a story of passion and perseverance. The couple met in 1998 while working at a Japanese bank, and after more than a decade in finance across Tokyo and London, they made a bold leap to New Zealand in 2006 with the dream of crafting their own wines. Both enrolled at Lincoln University to study viticulture and oenology, laying the academic foundation for their future.

Sato Wines
Sato Wines

Their winemaking journey began at Felton Road Wines, where they worked with Blair Walter, and later at Mount Edward, where Yoshiaki served as winemaker. In 2009, the couple launched the Sato Wines label and slowly grew their operation over the years. By 2016, they had established their own estate vineyard—La Ferme de Sato—in the Pisa sub-region of Central Otago, followed by the completion of their winery in 2019. Despite the growth, their philosophy remains grounded: to produce honest, living wines through organic farming and minimal intervention.

Q&A with Yoshiaki Sato – Founder of Sato Wines

1. Winery History and Philosophy

Q: Could you briefly introduce the history of your winery? When was it founded, and by whom?

A: My wife Kyoko and I founded Sato Wines in 2009, starting as a very small project with just 190 cases of Pinot Noir. After working in finance in Tokyo and London for 12 years, we moved to New Zealand in 2006 to pursue our dream of winemaking. We studied at Lincoln University, then worked at Felton Road and Mount Edward before establishing our own vineyard La Ferme de Sato in 2016. Our first vintage from the estate came in 2019.

Q: What does the name “Sato” or “La Ferme de Sato” mean to you personally or philosophically?

A: “Sato” is our family name, and “La Ferme” means “farm” in French. To us, it represents a place of harmony—where humans, land, and nature exist in dialogue.

Q: How would you describe your winemaking vision and how it evolved over time?

A: We follow a natural winemaking philosophy—organic or biodynamic viticulture, spontaneous fermentation, no additives or SO₂, and no fining or filtration. Over the past 17 years, we’ve been inspired by natural wine pioneers in France and Germany. Our goal is to create living wines that reflect their origin with honesty and purity.

2. Vineyards and Terroir

Q: How many hectares of vineyard do you currently farm?

A: Our total production is around 30,000 bottles per year. Of that, 60% (about 18,000 bottles) comes from our own 5-hectare estate vineyard La Ferme de Sato. The rest comes from organically farmed contract vineyards.

Q: Could you describe the terroirs you work with?

A: Our home vineyard in Pisa lies at 298–349 meters above sea level on a hillside, facing east to northeast, and was formerly a sheep pasture with no history of chemical use. The soils are loess and glacial alluvial, rich in schist and quartz.

Each block was designed based on slope, soil, and sunlight exposure:

  • Block 1 & 6 (Pinot Noir): Early ripening with strong diurnal shift.
  • Block 2 (Chenin Blanc & Chardonnay): Highest and coolest, rich in schist.
  • Block 4 (Cabernet Franc): Warmest, north-facing block.
  • Block 5 (Chardonnay): South slope with mixed gravel and loess.
  • Block 3 (Pinot Noir): Sheltered, gentler slope with more fertile soil. 

We also work with fruit from organic vineyards in Bannockburn and Bendigo for Riesling, Pinot Gris, and additional Pinot Noir.

Q: What grape varieties do you focus on, and why?

A: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay. Each was selected based on its suitability to express our site’s specific terroirs.

Q: Are your vineyards certified organic or biodynamic?

A: Yes. We farm according to biodynamic principles and received NZ Biogro certification (retroactive to 2016) in 2019. These methods help us enhance microbial life in the soil and preserve the terroir in our wines.

3. Winemaking Practices

Q: What is your approach to fermentation?

A: All fermentations are spontaneous with wild yeasts. Some wines like Les Violettes are made with 100% whole bunch. We avoid manipulation to retain microbial and aromatic complexity.

Q: What aging vessels do you prefer?

A: We use old oak barrels, stainless steel tanks, and ceramic vessels. The goal is always to avoid adding external flavors or masking the vineyard expression.

Q: How do you handle sulfite use and other interventions?

A: We don’t add SO₂ during vinification. Only a trace amount (10–15 ppm) may be added right before bottling. We also avoid fining and filtration.

Sato Wines

4. Signature Wines

We have several signature wines, each sourced from specific parcels within our estate vineyard “La Ferme de Sato” and reflecting both the terroir and our natural winemaking philosophy. The following cuvées best express who we are and what we believe:

  • “Sur Les Nuages” Pinot Noir

A cuvée spanning all three Pinot Noir blocks, this wine represents the soul of our vineyard. Its name, meaning “Above the Clouds,” comes from the high-altitude location of our estate, often rising above the winter inversion layer that blankets the Cromwell Basin below.

  • “Le Chant du Vent” Chardonnay

Meaning “The Song of the Wind,” this Chardonnay is inspired by the flute-like sound made when strong winds pass through the holes of vineyard posts. It’s a poetic tribute to the constant wind we live and work with.

  • “Les Blanches” Chardonnay

Harvested from the top of Block 5, the windiest and most exposed part of the vineyard, this Chardonnay comes from small berries with intense concentration. The name refers to the lighter color of the soil here, rich in quartz and sandstone, giving the parcel a distinctive pale appearance—“The White.”

  • “Schisteux” Chenin Blanc

Planted in Block 2, which has the highest concentration of schist in the vineyard, this wine’s name means “Made from Schist.” We believe the schist soil contributes to the unique minerality and structure of our Chenin Blanc.

  • “Sous Bois” Cabernet Franc

Translating to “Forest Floor,” this wine captures the complexity of Cabernet Franc from Block 4—aromas of fresh herbs, humus, and woodland. With its tall, dense canopy, the parcel also provides literal shade from the summer sun, like resting under a forest.

  • “Alyssum” Gamay

Named after the sweet-smelling alyssum flowers naturally growing in our vineyard, this wine reflects qualities such as modesty, tenderness, and purity. The flowers, intentionally cultivated to attract beneficial insects, symbolize exactly what we aim for in our Gamay.

  • “Les Violettes” Pinot Noir

Launched in 2021, this special cuvée is made from the finest Pinot Noir clones, 100% whole bunch fermented. It represents the union of our deep passion for great Pinot Noir and our respect for the French vignerons who shaped our natural winemaking path.

Q: What is your approximate production volume?

The winery produces approximately 30,000 bottles per year. Of this, 60% (about 18,000 bottles) comes from our estate vineyard “La Ferme de Sato”. The remaining 40% is made from organically farmed partner vineyards (the négoce line). Production volumes of individual cuvées vary depending on vintage, block, and grape variety: For example, “Les Blanches” Chardonnay is produced in very small quantities—no more than 3 barrels per year (about 800 bottles). “Les Violettes” Pinot Noir is also extremely limited, usually only two to four barrels per vintage. The other main cuvées are all small-batch, terroir-focused wines, with an emphasis on quality over quantity.

5. Market and Future Vision

Q: What are your main export markets?

A: We currently sell in nineteen regions including China, Japan, the UK, USA, France, Singapore, and much of Scandinavia.

Q: Have you noticed shifts in consumer taste?

A: Definitely. Younger wine lovers are looking for authenticity, transparency, and wines that reflect nature—which is perfectly aligned with what we do.

Q: How is Sato Wines addressing climate change?

A: Our high-altitude vineyard helps with cooling. Organic farming builds soil resilience. Our steep slopes also protect against frost. Understanding microclimates is key to our long-term sustainability.

The wines in this report

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Yumi Liu

Yumi Liu has been collecting and drinking wine for more than a decade and has earned a slew of wine certificates in the interim: level 3 WSET and now planning diploma studies; Educator level in Spanish wines (Wines of Spain certified), top level New Zeland wines (Wines of New Zeland certified) and obtained the highest score in her class for German wines (Wines of Germany certified). She has passed all of Ian D’Agata’s Italian wine courses and is generally regarded as being one of the most knowledgeable people on Italian wine in all of China. Over the years, she has also served as the Wine Educator at EMW wines, one of China’s five largest and most important fine wine importers and has led masterclasses on wines at prestigious wine shows including the Wine to Asia fair in Shenzhen and Vinitaly in Verona.

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