Real Quality Prosecco can age: Masottina Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rive di Ogliano Extra Dry 2024-2014

by Ian D’Agata

If you don’t believe, or more likely just don’t plain realize that Prosecco wine is imbued (or rather, can be imbued) of terroir, then think again. And get to know Masottina, that with its two different R.D.O. Proseccos is arguably the best producer of Prosecco Superiore wines made with grapes from the Conegliano section of the Valdobbiadene-Conegliano DOCG. (That same Valdobbiadene-Conegliano area that in 2019 was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, given its unique beauty.)

Historically, everyone making wine in the Conegliano and Valdobbiadene usually blended the grapes from the territories of the two communes (clearly, only if they owned vineyards in the two different sections of the DOCG area or could afford to buy those from the area they didn’t have vines in). This was more than savvy, given that it allowed to make wines that combined the floral and citrussy acid elements of Valdobbiadene’s limestone-rich soils with the structure and power derived from Conegliano’s clay-rich soils. Keep in mind that all the Prosecco wines made from the territories of these two communes, when made by competent producers, are potential standouts, and they literally blow out of the water all those oceans of indusrial, insipid, thin, tart Prosecoo wines that are a shame to the wine and denomination’s name. After all, it’s not by chance that Prosecco DOCG is also known as Prosecco Superiore, one of the very few instances in Italian wine you’ll find that descriptor, ‘Superiore’, actually means something. It tells you that the Prosecco you are drinking is made with grapes grown in the territories of only fifteen (15) communes, and not from that of 556 communes dispersed over nine provinces like it is with generically labeled Prosecco wines. (For comparison’s sake, be aware that the DOCG produces about 90 million bottles of Prosecco a year, compared to the roughly 660 million of the DOC.) And so, seeing the word ‘Superiore’ on Prosecco wine labels is actually helpful to wine lovers and potential wine buyers. Clearly, the producer then has to have the talent to actually come up with something good from his vineyards: and that is precisely the case with Masottina. And when you drink a Prosecco Superiore from Masottina’s Rive di Ogliano vineyard area, located in Conegliano’s territory, you realize immediately how different it is from a Prosecco Superiore wine made by the likes of equally talented folks such as Silvano Follador and Ruggeri over in Valdobbiadene.

Because there really is terroir at work in weaving the magical fibre of which a great Prosecco Superiore is made of.

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Ian D’Agata
Ian D’Agata

Ian D’Agata is an internationally famous, multi-award winning author who has been speaking and writing about wine for thirty years. His latest books (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, Italy’s Grapes and Wines: The definitive Compendium Region by Region and the most recent, Barolo Terroir) are considered the bibles of Italian wine and have received numerous prestigious awards such as the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards “Book of the Year” title, the Gourmand World Book Awards “Best European Wine Book” and being named to the “Best Wine Books of the Year” lists of newspapers and magazines such as the NY Times, the Financial Times and Food & Wine. For eight years, Ian has also been the co-author of the Italy section in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Book of Wine, the world’s best- selling wine guide with 46 editions to date and over 12 Million copies sold all over the world; he has since been also put in charge of the Alsace and Malta sections.
He is the is currently the President of Ian D’Agata Wine Culture, one of China’s wine education platforms, that includes the Ian D’Agata Wine Review and the Ian D’Agata Wine Academy. Ian is a former staff writer at Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Contributing Editor of Decanter, and Senior Editor of Vinous. His writings have always focused on the wines of Italy, France, China and Canada, for which he has won numerous international awards and accolades, including the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia “Best Youngest Wine Journalist of Italy” and the “Best Wine Journalist of Italy” awards, as well as Canada’s 2018 VQA award (Out of Ontario section) and 2017 Cuvée Award of Excellence.
Intensely devoted to the research and study of native wine grapes, Ian was officially named in 2015 to Italy’s prestigious Accademia della Vite e del Vino (Italy’s official association of wine academicians, researchers, and university professors) and is currently the Vice President of the Association Internationale des Terroirs.

Contacts: Instagram: @ian_dagata

Email: ian.dagata@iandagatawine.com

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Ian D’Agata has led different wine schools over the years, and has been increasingly asked over the years to set up new ones for different outfits. In the early 2000s, he taught wine courses at the Gambero Rosso’s Citta’ del Gusto, and in 2003 was named co-director of the International Wine...

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