Wine Disappointments: The Shadow That Accompanies Anticipation

by Robert Millman

Two recent disappointments with famous wines of considerable reputation have reminded me of the inherent problems that can prevent a wine, even from a great estate, from reaching full potential. In this case it was the 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion and the 1990 Haut-Brion. It is only fair for me to acknowledge that I have had compelling wines from both Châteaux over the last 30+ years. I recently wrote about a magnificent bottle of the 2001 La Mission Haut-Brion I enjoyed at Daniel Bould’s Le Gratin restaurant in Manhattan. Alas the bottle of 1989 I shared with friends was as disappointing as the 2001 was thrilling. They say that there are no great wines just great bottles especially for wines of 30-50 years in bottle which are subject to the vicissitudes of storage conditions, the quality or lack thereof of the original corks and the unpredictability of aging itself.

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Robert Millman
Robert Millman

Robert Millman’s wine career began in the early 1980s, when he began working from Morrell & Company, one of the USA’s top wine retailers. During that time, he co-founded Executive Wine Seminars (EWS) with Howard Kaplan, which over the years became one of NYC’s most highly regarded wine events companies. Robert Parker was a regular guest presenter at the tastings, and through 2011, the results of the tastings were published on the Wine Advocate website. Having reached an age where taking a step back from the wear and tear of life in the wine fast lane made sense, Millman currently enjoys being a taster and wine writer for Grapes the Wine Company, an excellent, leading e-retailer based in Westchester and is a regular contributor to the Ian D’Agata Wine Review.

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