A Quick Glance at Italian Varieties in California and Two Outstanding Examples of What Can Be Achieved

by Michele Gargani

The world of wine is perpetually in motion. While international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir dominate the global stage, a quieter, more nuanced movement is taking place: the exploration of Italian grape varieties in new world terroirs. This topic, broad and multi-faceted, deserves a comprehensive discussion. Two wines, one Aglianico and one Sangiovese, have recently inspired me to begin unraveling this complex subject.

Italian varieties such as Sangiovese, Tocai Friulano, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Vermentino, Fiano and many more, often find themselves on the periphery of mainstream discourse when planted outside their native lands. Yet, pockets of visionary winemakers worldwide are experimenting with these grapes, seeking either a perfect match for their unique terroir or the opportunity to explore uncharted vinous potential. The results can be illuminating, though rarely without challenges.

More often than not, these vines are relegated to lesser plots; prime vineyard real estate is usually reserved for more profitable, well-established varieties. Coupled with the lack of high-quality clonal material and less familiarity with ideal vinification techniques, the odds of success can seem slim. Yet, I applaud the brave producers who invest time, money, and passion to enrich the wine world with greater diversity.

Sangiovese: A Noble Struggle

Of the two grapes under discussion, Sangiovese is the closer to being considered an “international” variety. Its heart remains in Tuscany, where it forms the backbone of iconic wines like Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. However, outside these enclaves, Sangiovese has often struggled to thrive, especially in the new world.

How could such a noble variety falter? There are probably a number of factors at work:

Market Misconceptions: Many new world consumers expect Sangiovese to deliver the bold, rich profiles of Bordeaux varieties. In reality, Sangiovese shines as a medium-bodied wine with bright acidity and dusty tannins—traits that don’t always align with these expectations. Luckly that misconception is finally changing.

Clonal Material and Winemaking: Historically, new world vineyards have lacked access to high-quality clones of Sangiovese. Even now, as better genetic material becomes available, winemakers must navigate its unique demands. Replicating Italian winemaking techniques often leads to suboptimal results. For example, extended barrel aging can leave California Sangiovese feeling overly dry and stripped of its vibrancy.

Terroir Mismatch: Sangiovese in Italy thrives in the cooler inland areas of Tuscany, not the hot costal zones where other varieties flourish. When grown in overly warm climates, it can result in wines with high alcohol, thin body, and baked aromas. These are often signs of technical maturation (sugar development) outpacing phenolic maturation (tannins, color, and aromatics), a mismatch exacerbated by excessive heat.

Despite these hurdles, a handful of visionary producers in California are redefining Sangiovese’s potential. Stolpman Vineyards, for example, has embraced its terroir in the Central Coast, crafting wines that highlight the grape’s natural acidity and dusty tannins. Similarly, producers like Giornata in Paso Robles have shown that thoughtful site selection and precise winemaking can yield Sangiovese wines of elegance and depth.

Sangiovese’s journey in the new world is one of trial and error, but the growing number of success stories suggests a bright future for this noble variety when matched with the right approach.

Aglianico: A Rising Star

Aglianico, the noble grape of Southern Italy, though far from being an international grape, seems to have found a stronger footing in the new world than its Tuscan counterpart.  I compare it to Cabernet Sauvignon for its adaptability and structural backbone, and like it, Aglianico retains its varietal essence even in unfamiliar soils. Notes of violets, incense, and clove weave through its robust frame, offering a glimpse of its profound potential. 

Producers like Villa Creek and Giornata in Paso Robles have showcased Aglianico’s promise. The Villa Creek 2011 Aglianico from Luna Matta Vineyard is aging at a glacial pace, maintaining its vibrancy and structure well beyond many other wines from the same vintage and region. Similarly, Giornata’s expressions from the same vineyard reveal a finesse and complexity that demand attention. Perhaps the most inspiring example comes from Leonetti Cellar in Washington State. Their Aglianico, sourced from the estate Sierra Pedace Vineyard in the Walla Walla region, is nothing short of breathtaking. Impeccably structured, with immense aging potential, it highlights the variety’s ability to shine in new world terroirs.

As more producers embrace the nuances of these varieties—choosing the right sites, experimenting with winemaking techniques, and remaining steadfast in their vision—the potential for creating wines that honor both tradition and innovation grows stronger. Italian grapes may not dominate the global stage like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay, but their unique ability to express terroir offers something profoundly rewarding for those willing to take the risk.

The triumphs of wines like Leonetti’s Aglianico and Stolpman’s Sangiovese remind us that diversity in the vineyard enriches the world of wine. While challenges remain, the successes achieved so far hint at an exciting future for Italian varieties in the new world—a future filled with discovery, refinement, and the promise of extraordinary wines yet to come.

The wines in this tasting

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Michele Gargani
Michele Gargani

Michele Gargani, originally from Italy, moved to California in his 20s and built a dynamic career that blended culinary arts and a passion for wine. With years spent as a chef, his interest in winemaking was sparked by working several harvests in Paso Robles. This passion led him to a sommelier position at La Casa Nostra in Bangkok. After two years as a restaurant owner in Friuli, Michele decided to pursue winemaking full-time. He gained hands-on experience with a harvest at Venica & Venica in Friuli, followed by work at the renowned Turley Cellars in Paso Robles. Now, as a contributor to Ian D’Agata Wine Reviews, Michele combines his expertise in both wine and food, shaping his journey as a writer and winemaker.

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