Ian D’Agata Reviews Five Decades of Ornellaia History and Its Wines: 1985-2021

by Ian D’Agata

First produced in 1985, the Ornellaia red wine is one of Italy’s most famous, and is coveted by collectors and wine lovers everywhere. In the relatively short time frame of forty years (which is nothing compared to some of France’s most famous wineries), the Tenuta dell’Ornellaia (tenuta is the Italian word for ‘estate’) has established itself as one of the most iconic producers in Italy (and not just Italy). In fact, over the years, the winery has become associated with another iconic wine too, Masseto, a 100% Merlot wine (since 2019 has been made at its own winery). To be crystal-clear, and it is most definitely a merit that Ornellaia can and should be proud of, there are very few wine estates anywhere in the world that can boast of making two similarly great, iconic wines.

Being of Italian parents, I was fortunate to have lived in Italy during the 1980s (and prior to that, while living in Canada, to have spent most of the summers of the 1970s in Italy as well): in short, I was able to live, first-hand, the renaissance of Italian wine. It is not an exaggeration to state that I have almost certainly sat through more verticals of Ornellaia than any other English-language wine writer (and probably of Italian ones too), so it is an estate I know well. That also includes being one of a handful of people to ever taste the Tenuta’s legendary Merlot wine, Masseto, even before it was ever released and wasn’t even yet called Masseto. (I was at dinner at the Il Dito e la Luna restaurant in Rome’s San Lorenzo district with an Ornellaia representative of the time, dining with perhaps the city’s then most famous wine shop owner, when we were served a 1986 red simply called “Merlot dell’Ornellaia” -of which only 600 bottles were made. That was the wine that became Masseto in 1987, its first official vintage.)

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Ian D’Agata
Ian D’Agata

Ian D’Agata is an internationally famous, multi-award winning author who has been speaking and writing about wine for thirty years. His latest books (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, Italy’s Grapes and Wines: The definitive Compendium Region by Region and the most recent, Barolo Terroir) are considered the bibles of Italian wine and have received numerous prestigious awards such as the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards “Book of the Year” title, the Gourmand World Book Awards “Best European Wine Book” and being named to the “Best Wine Books of the Year” lists of newspapers and magazines such as the NY Times, the Financial Times and Food & Wine. For eight years, Ian has also been the co-author of the Italy section in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Book of Wine, the world’s best- selling wine guide with 46 editions to date and over 12 Million copies sold all over the world; he has since been also put in charge of the Alsace and Malta sections.
He is the is currently the President of Ian D’Agata Wine Culture, one of China’s wine education platforms, that includes the Ian D’Agata Wine Review and the Ian D’Agata Wine Academy. Ian is a former staff writer at Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Contributing Editor of Decanter, and Senior Editor of Vinous. His writings have always focused on the wines of Italy, France, China and Canada, for which he has won numerous international awards and accolades, including the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia “Best Youngest Wine Journalist of Italy” and the “Best Wine Journalist of Italy” awards, as well as Canada’s 2018 VQA award (Out of Ontario section) and 2017 Cuvée Award of Excellence.
Intensely devoted to the research and study of native wine grapes, Ian was officially named in 2015 to Italy’s prestigious Accademia della Vite e del Vino (Italy’s official association of wine academicians, researchers, and university professors) and is currently the Vice President of the Association Internationale des Terroirs.

Contacts: Instagram: @ian_dagata; Email: iandomenicodagata@outlook.it

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