Over the past five centuries, the Philipponnat family has left an indelible mark on the Champagne region. Since 1522, when Apvril le Philipponnat acquired the Le Léon vineyard located between the villages of Aÿ and Dizy, the family’s legacy has continued to grow. Although the family registered in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in 1910, it wasn’t until 1935 that Pierre Philipponnat, the founder of the Philipponnat Champagne house, began purchasing vineyards in Clos des Goisses. He subsequently introduced the region’s first Clos Champagne, which was likely first produced in 1947.

The Philipponnat family has made Aÿ their home, passing down their traditions through the generations and working diligently on this fertile land. Today, the legacy is carried on by Charles Philipponnat, the sixteenth generation of the family.

The family has a long and rich history in the heart of the Champagne region, particularly in the villages of Aÿ and Mareuil. The eighteenth-century cellars, once part of the Château de Mareuil estate, are still in use. The estate also boasts a prestigious and legendary vineyard—Clos des Goisses. This legendary vineyard, spanning 5.83 hectares, is enclosed by walls and situated on a steep 45 degrees slope, so it needs to be terraced. In the old Champagne dialect, “Gois” or “Goisse” refers to an extremely steep slope, which is how the vineyard got its name. Notably, this pure chalky slope faces directly south, basking in sunlight throughout the day, making it one of the warmest sites in the Champagne region (actually, some say the warmest).

Philipponnat owns approximately 22 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, located in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ, Avenay Val d’Or, and Mutigny. The majority of the estate’s vineyards are concentrated in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, with the most notable being two single vineyards: Clos des Goisses and Le Léon. Clos des Goisses is one of the oldest enclosed vineyards in the Champagne region and is a monopole of Philipponnat. Le Léon, situated in the Aÿ Grand Cru area, is another high-quality single parcel. Apart from Philipponnat, Bollinger is another renowned Champagne house that owns and uses the Le Léon vineyard. Le Léon provides Bollinger with premium Pinot Noir grapes, particularly for their top Champagne lines, such as “Grande Année” or “Vieilles Vignes Françaises.”

Compared to other Champagne houses, Philipponnat harvests relatively late, aiming to achieve better grape maturity, richer flavors, and greater complexity on the palate.

Winemaking Process  

The estate employs the solera method, where a portion of reserve wines is aged in oak barrels and then blended into the non-vintage cuvées at a ratio of one-quarter to one-third. These blended wines subsequently become part of the reserve aging process, serving as the foundation for future blends.

In terms of grape variety selection, Philipponnat predominantly focuses on Pinot Noir, with a particular preference for ripe and full-bodied grapes harvested from south-facing slopes.

Vineyards

Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is a Premier Cru village in the Champagne region. The vineyards are mainly located on south-facing and southeast-facing slopes with chalky and limestone soils. Philipponnat makes a Champagne that carries the village’s name, and is made with grapes sourced from different vineyards in the commune. For example, the 2014 vintage is a blend of grapes from the Montin, Les Côtes, and Croix Blanche plots (lieux-dits). Montin  is located in the central part of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, with relatively flat terrain. The soil here is primarily composed of chalk with some clay, offering good drainage and a suitable mineral content. Montin’s location allows it to benefit from ample sunlight, aiding grape ripening. Pinot Noir from this area exhibits concentrated fruit flavors and structure. Les Côtes is situated in the southeastern part of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, near the hillside. This vineyard is south-facing, with a steep slope and predominantly chalky soil, allowing the vines to root deeply and draw rich minerals. The microclimate here is typically warm due to the slope’s position. Les Côtes produces Pinot Noir with greater depth, complexity, and excellent aging potential. Croix Blanche is located in the southwestern part of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, near the village’s edge. The soil is mainly chalk, interspersed with some limestone and clay, providing good drainage. The terrain is relatively flat, and the mineral content of the soil imparts a noticeable minerality to the wine.

Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Champagne is typically crafted by blending Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from various vineyards within the village. The winemaking process may involve partial oak barrel fermentation and extended bottle aging to enhance the Champagne’s complexity and aging capacity. The production of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Champagne is relatively limited, with about 5,000 bottles produced in 2014. Because it comes from multiple vineyard plots, its flavor profile exhibits greater balance and complexity, showcasing the typical characteristics of Marne Valley Champagne—rich fruit flavors, minerality, and significant aging potential.

The wines in this tasting

All the wines in this report were tasted in Shanghai in August 2024, at a Philipponnat new vintage presentation by Thomas Jorez, Export director. The 2010 and 2006 Clos des Goisses, as well as the 2014 Le Leon and the Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Champagnes were sourced directly from my cellar to make the present report more complete.